Vitreous enamel

Vitreous enamel, also known as hot enamel, is a vitreous paste that can be applied to metals such as gold, silver, and copper by firing in special kilns at over 800 °C.
Born around 1200 BC in the Mediterranean, the art of enameling jewelry has developed over centuries, giving life to some of history's most fantastic works of art.

Today, vitreous enamel is used by a few skillful artists in the world to create jewels characterized by bright colors.

Discover the jewels of Rebecca D. Enamel

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Vitreous enamel is a complex technique that I have had the good fortune to perfect over the years with the best enamelers in the world. At 16 years old, I started studying the basics with Sister Teresa. Then there was Kyoko Iio, a teacher of Japanese cloisonné. I continued my studies in 2016 with Nikolai Vdovkin and in 2017 with Jean Zamora, from whom I learned the classic Limoges techniques: èmail peint and grisaille.

After dedicating years to mastering the secrets of vitreous enamel, I now share this knowledge through my workshops in Milan. My goal is to ensure that this rare and precious art form is preserved, developed, and passed on to the next generation of artists.

Hot Enamel Brooch Basis - Enameling of the copper base of a hot enamel pin with the application of the flux which will be cooked in an oven at 800 °C
Silver foil over hot enamel brooch - Preparation of the silver leaf to be applied on the copper base of a hot enamel brooch.
Creation of cloisons of a hot enamel brooch - Creation of silver cloisons for the realization of an enamel cloisonné with hot enamels which are cooked in an oven at 800 °C
Application of Hot Enamel - Wet application of the enamel with a brush. The enamel is applied inside the cells created by the silver cloisons.
Details of the creation of a hot enamel brooch - Wet application of the enamel with a brush. The enamel is applied inside the cells created by the silver cloisons applied on the flux enamel.
Firing of hot enamel - Firing hot enamel in a kiln at over 800 °C. The fire enamels melt on and join the base metal.

Do you want to know more? Discover my enameling workshops

Discover my enamel workshops

  • Vitreous enamel is a glass-like vitreous material and is extremely durable, heat-resistant, and fade-proof. Cold enamel (or epoxy resin) is a plastic-based material that mimics the look of enamel but scratches easily and can yellow over time. Vitreous enamel is a precious material in fine jewelry.

  • Yes, once fired, vitreous enamel is completely safe to wear. It is a non-toxic, hypoallergenic glass surface. Historically, some enamels contained lead to achieve certain colors, but most modern enamels are lead-free.

  • There are several historic techniques, each with a unique look. In Cloisonné, wires are bent to create cells (cloisons) that are filled with enamel. In Champlevé, cells are carved directly into the metal base and filled. In Miniature Painting, very fine enamel powder is mixed with oil and painted like a canvas, then fired layer by layer. In Plique-à-jour, enamel is suspended in cells with no backing, resembling a stained-glass window.

  • Vitreous enameling is a complex art that requires expert guidance. Books and workshops can set you on the right track. I have written an introductory book on enameling techniques that covers the fundamental techniques. I also offer specialized enamel workshops in Milan for both beginners and advanced students.

  • High-quality vintage enamels can be hard to find, but you can occasionally find them in physical or online second-hand markets, and by knowing the right people. In my online shop, I occasionally offer a curated selection of vintage enamel. Rare colors and brands that are no longer in production.